WHAT/WHERE?

Located off the beaten track in the Exmoor town of Lynmouth on the North Devon coast, Tors Park is a contemporary conversion of a former 19th century hotel into 34 contemporary self-catering apartments sleeping 2-6 people, perfect for families, couples and stay-cays with the pooch. Perched on a wooded cliffside, here has front row seats for the natural drama of the Bristol Channel and Wales hazily across the water in the distance, the plunging cliffs and huge skies and the River Lyn which dissects this unspoilt town.

About 19 miles from its nearest big town, Barnstaple, here’s known for its fabulous walks, whether up to the the Valley of the Rocks, famed for its feral goats, along the riverside to the falls at Watersmeet or down to the twinkling lights of the town for a pint in an old smugglers pub.

THE VIBE

door to Ocean Penthouse, Tors Park, Lynmouth

Ocean Penthouse is a serious sexy three-bed apartment on two floors, sleeping up to seven people, plus a further mezzanine up top. It rocks a spacious double-height, open-plan layout with two small balconies and a further terrace for alfresco dining under the pines.

We left the kids at home and went with another couple and Bond villain chic was their take on the high-flying feel of being lord of all you purvey. Think ski chalet meets New York loft apartment, decorated in seaside neutrals, Scandi wood floors and A-frame beams, and dominated by a huge pebble-coloured sofa for lounging.

breakfast bar at Ocean Penthouse, Tors Park, Lynmouth

The well-equipped kitchen area has a large breakfast bar for cooking and chatting, kitted out with modern AEG hob and split-level microwave and oven, plus a handy dishwasher, and all the chef’s gear you need to make light work of the self-catering.

Most of the old hotel was demolished and remodelled in the build, but, in a charming touch, the original ornate barge boards in the eaves remain. Along with shutters and tall peaked roofs, it’s a look that’s common around this part of North Devon, reflecting the name Little Switzerland which the Romantic poets gave the area for its resemblance to the alps.

woodburner at Tors park, Lynmouth, Devon

We were here during a cold snap, and the place was super-toasty – a peaceful, beautifully-lit sanctuary to return to after windswept walks, with a very efficient wood-burner we all wished we could take home.

PILLOW TALK

bedroom at Ocean Penthouse, Tors Park, Lynmouth

The bedrooms are all doubles with three very comfortable kingsize beds, one with ensuite in the eaves and two with a shared main bathroom.

There’s a further pull-out sofabed on the mezzanine, which while as luxe and comfortable as everywhere else, would probably be nabbed by the kids as their den.

bedroom at Ocean Penthouse, Tors Park, Lynmouth

I slept in the upstairs bedroom which is built into the eaves, which felt like a lovely private eyrie up in the tree canopy, with two Velux windows, large enough to see the sea in the distance, and hear the owls and shrill shriek of Peregrine falcons. My only wish was for a bedroom mirror when using the hairdryer, to add to the large one in the bathroom.

The bathrooms are minimalist wet rooms, with Faith in Nature soap and hand cream by the sink, and the option to buy shampoo, body wash and conditioner for the shower.

KID-FRIENDLY?

I wouldn’t take an exploratory toddler due to the low-positioned Smart TV and the floating wooden staircase, but here works well for parents with babies and older kids. Outdoorsy teens would probably find here pretty cool, thanks to good wifi, and the extra TV in the mezzanine, and the possibility of spotting a dolphin. There’s a small selection of games, and for a small fee you can hire cots and highchairs. The large hall is carpeted with a rugged doormat with plenty of space for coats and muddy boots, and everything, from the floor to the sleek wipeable breakfast bar is easy-clean.

DOG-FRIENDLY?

Yes, and what’s more they don’t mind if you take three of ’em! There’s a £25 charge per stay for dogs, and an outside tap in the car park for sluicing them down after a walk along the dog-friendly town beach and riverside walks. The best local pubs, including the old smugglers haunt opposite the harbour, The Rising Sun, and good cocktail go-to, The Ancient Mariner, welcome dogs too.

ACCESSIBILITY

Two of the bedrooms are on the level, with an easy-access wet room right next door. There’s a lift to get you down to the lower levels of Tors Park and a wheelchair-friendly path from the car park, with helpful trolleys to transport your luggage, and, while people on wheels might struggle on the wood chip path that zigzags down to the town, there’s a lane at the back of Tors Park for wheelchair and buggy users.

OUT & ABOUT

Bring your boots – this is Exmoor walking country, whether you stay on the South West coast path or head inland along the river. We headed out both days – east up Countisbury Hill to a viewing point, then down to NT Watersmeet via the ancient oak woods and a warming lunch at The Blue Ball Inn. On day two, we headed up the hill a mile or so and parked in Lynton’s car park and took the surprisingly accessible circular walk to the Valley of the Rocks, known for its feral goats which munch precariously on the cliffside.

From mid-February, The Lynton-Lynmouth Cliff Railway re-opens after its winter maintenance – a 500ft funicular affair dating back to 1890, which means you can swerve the steep walk and have a wander around the shops and cafés. Brunch at Charlie Fridays, a colourful carnival affair, is so good we went there twice – shaksuka, chimmichurri flatbread and kedgeree since you ask, washed down with a delicious turmeric drink made with honey and ginger.

Charlie Fridays, Lynton, does a fabulous brunch

Trying to find a grocers in Lynmouth drew a blank, while Lynton has just a couple of convenience stores, so, if you’re planning on cooking, do your supermarket shop before you go. Alternatively, there are some excellent eateries, including all the aforementioned as well as The Old Bank, North Coast Café and The Vanilla Pod in Lynton, and the 100 year-old tea room at Watersmeet, a former fishing lodge which serves up National Trust fare from spring to autumn.

Don’t miss the charming indie Lynton Cinema tucked away behind the craft centre on Lee Road in Lynmouth. It’s just 68 seats but it shows mainstream movies and is owned by the fabulous Bill, who converted it from a church hall 20 years ago and who is a total mine of info on everything from where to eat to local celebs; Tony Blackburn, Elkie Brooks, someone from The Kinks and the actress Susan George, if you’re autograph-hunting.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Shout it from the rooftops – or maybe let’s just keep it to ourselves! – here’s a year-round charmer. Lynton and Lynmouth is great for a day trip, but you’ll get so much more from a stay at Tors Park, giving you a plush place to rest after a day out. I’d happily return year after year. Beverley, Tors Park’s GM, was incredibly helpful, and full of local knowledge, and just FYI, while the last of the building work is quietly ongoing, it’s not in your face, with a communal decking area, a building for yoga retreats and private dining coming in summer 2024.

Good for: outdoorsy families seeking quality time together; a special occasion; walkers, wild swimmers and wildlife lovers; a brilliant base for exploring the South West coast path; staying longer – some apartments are available on a 6 or 12 month rental, or to buy outright.

Not for: city slickers and culture vultures; all inclusive, you have to pay for extras, like cots, highchairs, extra wood (though our generous bundle lasted for two days); golden sands and palm trees – Exmoor is Devon’s wilder coast with mostly shingle beaches. Head to Woolacombe, half an hour’s drive if you want sandy beach.

The damage: our two-night stay in mid-January cost £574, amazing value between the four of us. Prices from £133-£517, depending on how many bedrooms and the time of year. It’s a minimum stay of two nights and from Jul 23- Sept 3, plus Christmas and New Year, a minimum stay of three nights.

Tors Park, Lynmouth, Devon EX35 6BN. Book here or call/email 02034 886 980; hello@torspark.co.

Stay review: Ocean Penthouse, Tors Park, Lynmouth

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