WHAT/WHERE?

glamping tipis at night at HARTA Retreat North Devon — Credit HARTA/Lucy Lane

Down bracken-lined North Devon lanes, in a sheltered Exmoor valley, is where you’ll find HARTA Retreat. It’s an established tipi-style glamping stay and wedding venue sitting in 46 acres of rustic orchards, lakes and pasture. Muddy’s here because HARTA’s owners, Miranda and Aaron, have just launched a brand-new, two-day winter stay, Wintering Well, inspired by the concept of wintering. Think Katherine May’s bestselling book made real, nature’s way to hop off the hamster wheel, and follow nature’s lead towards rest and renewal in the darker months. Hibernating for humans.

THE VIBE

Exmoor does The Great Plains. We’re talking star-studded dark skies, wood smoke on the air and a river running by. Your double-skinned tipi is stylish, private, and warmed by underfloor heating and a Hobbit log-burner. Sure it’s outdoorsy, so you’ll need to pack the wellies and big jumpers, but all your home comforts are taken care of. I guarantee you will love the complimentary welcome hamper full of wellness goodies, and breakfast is delivered to your door (do tipis have doors?) both days. Just the ticket for savouring those slow, lazy mornings.

PILLOW TALK

bedroom in Dancing Deer at HARTA Retreat North Devon

The main tipi space of bed, log-burner, table and kitchen essentials is connected to an ensuite bathroom with flushing loo and luxurious lounging in a roll-top bath. So, absolutely no midnight treks with a flashlight, unless you want to star-gaze or go night-time deer-spotting, that is.

With 5G and electric sockets for your phone (but no Wifi), you don’t have to do the full digital detox. The mini fridge, coffee machine and kettle mean you can keep your caffeine and alcohol levels nicely topped up too.

man taking an outdoor shower at HARTA Retreat East Down Devon credit Christy Quinn — Credit HARTA/Christy Quinn

The bed sits in its own purpose-built wooden unit with lovely, dimmable lighting and electric sockets. It was so hard to peel myself away from the bed’s organic linen and snuggly sheepskin throws, I felt as lazy as a teenager. But you can up the ante with an outdoor shower, if you’re feeling adventurous.

SCOFF & QUAFF

breakfast at luxury tipi glamping stay at HARTA Retreat North Devon

The outdoor wooden kitchen catering facilities might work for a summer stay, but unless you’re pretty hardcore, you’ll probably be looking to the local pubs and eateries. The comp continental breakfast of warm pastries, bread, fruit, boiled eggs, yogurt, granola and orange juice is wonderful, and so generous, we made it last for lunch too.

For evening, I’d recommend decamping to East Down’s brilliant gastropub, The Pyne Arms. It’s a short drive, but worth it for the welcoming, rustic vibe and their excellent katsu and lamb suet pudding. Prefer to order in? We hear that Aaron makes a mean great curry, or check out the useful HARTA retreat digital guidebook for more local suggestions.

THE WELLNESS

When you arrive you’re greeted by a ready-lit wood burner and a curated Wintering Well Gift Box full of wellness rituals and keepsakes, including The Orchard Candle by Home County Co, Gathered & Grown herbal tea and botanical bath tea, a reflective Prompt Set, a copy of the Southwester paper, Princetown Press natural paper and foraged natural inks, a notebook and pencil, a HARTA postcard and a Digital Detox Challenge so you can see just how long can you go without your phone!

sauna at HARTA Retreat in East Down North Devon

Do try the Santai Wellness Cabin which comes as part of your Wintering Well package (also open to non-residents if you fancy dipping your toe).

woman enjoying the plunge pool at the Santai Cabin at HARTA Retreat East Down Devon

This luxurious wood-fired sauna has views overlooking the lake, and sits on a deck with a sunken plunge pool and swing seats for blissing out afterwards.

treatment room at tipi glamping site HARTA Retreat North Devon

You can also book in for a treatment with a very good local therapist, Karen Vogelin who we can highly recommend. Karen has magic hands and offers incredibly soothing gong baths too.

OUT & ABOUT

The-house-at-Arlington-Court-National-Trust-Images_James-Beck — Credit National Trust Arlington Court / James Beck

Miranda and Aaron live in the big house with their two teenage girls and boisterous golden retrievers, so are on hand for local knowledge. The HARTA retreat digital guidebook will point you towards half a dozen local beaches, along with kayaking, surfing and off road style adventures. The National Trust Victorian gardens and Regency house at Arlington Court is just a few minutes away by car where you’ll find Beauvais tapestries, a Wiliam Blake masterpiece and a carriage museum which is all very Downton Abbey. If you can’t be without your culture and comedy, nearby Barnstaple has the Queen’s Theatre or there’s the Landmark Theatre at Ilfracombe.

DOG-FRIENDLY?

Yes, Sitting Bull is, although with a river close by and sheep in the fields you’d be wanting a well-behaved one. Bring a towel for muddy paws and maybe your own dog bowl and bed for cosy paws.

KID-FRIENDLY?

This a tipi for two, so no need to feel guilty about offloading the kids on the grandparents for the weekend. That said, general stays at HARTA can welcome older children and they also offer Tipi Takeover stays for families (just not the Wintering Well package).

ACCESSIBILITY

The site isn’t advertised as wheelchair friendly due to the undulating terrain and areas can get soggy.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Muddy Devon editor Lis Buckland at HARTA Retreat review

Winter without the wind chill! The cosiest nights you will ever have under canvas, for magical winter mornings and wellness with added adventure. Having worried I’d be cold at night, I had the best night’s sleep in ages (all that fresh Exmoor air) and woke up as snug as the proverbial bug in a rug – to a hot breakfast not made by me! Quirky it may be, but this bespoke new stay has elevated the already unique tipis into Exmoor’s best glamping spot.

Good for: reconnecting with your OH, and mum and daughter bonding (as long as you don’t mind sharing the kingsize); dipping your toe in the digital detox without giving up your phone; a child-free vibe; showing off your cold cred to hardcore friends; a base for exploring the North Devon coast and the wintry wonder of Exmoor National Park; welly-walkers, daydreamers, star gazers and bookworms.

Not for: family-friendly hols; indoor showers, watching TV, an honesty shop or practising your cordon bleu skills; people who struggle without wifi.

The damage: Excellent value. Wintering Well at HARTA Retreat runs until Mar 1 2026 and costs £485 for a weekend stay (Fri/Sat) or £425 midweek, plus the option of an extra night for £85 (not inc breakfast) an hour-long sauna worth £15pp included. Includes complimentary breakfast both days and a Wintering Well Gift Box, worth £80.

Wintering Well HARTA Retreat, Cleave Farm, East Down, North Devon EX31 4NX. Email hello@harta-retreat.co.uk. Tel +44 (0)7899662767

Review: Wintering Well at HARTA Retreat, East Down

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