WHAT/WHERE?

Sacha Newell with dogs outside The Ley Arms, Kenn in Devon

Who remembers the film Stardust and the aesthetically-inclined pirate, Captain Shakespeare, who had a deep love of all things English? This weekend I discovered the pub where he would have spent his dotage, had he hung up his swashbuckling and applied all of his fantastical interior design extravagances to create the perfect magical tavern.

Kenn is in a small village just outside of Exeter, jam-packed with quintessential thatched country cottages and at its heart, a beautiful Norman church and a thatched pub with rooms, The Ley Arms. The two have co-existed since the 12^th century when the pub was built to house the workers for the church.

Now under the impressive stewardship of brother and sister team, Karen and Martin Diment, The Ley Arms has seen a transformation in recent years. Martin’s background is one of the international design elite. He has headed up design both at Burberry in London and in New York for Ralph Lauren and John Varvatos. He is the Captain Shakespeare of the piece.

THE VIBE

The tavern itself is a long, thatched building, with something of a runway down the middle with cosy nooks off to either side. Trying to identify the colour of the walls, I landed on turquoise, but turquoise in a dark storm where you are somewhere between sky and sea. The lighting is reclaimed lanterns from Turkey, Morocco and beyond, and these are interspersed with fairy lights that shine like stars in the night sky to guide your way home.

Next to the bar is the most beautiful mural which could have been designed by William Morris after a great night out with Andy Warhol at Studio 55.

It has all of the DNA of the Arts and Crafts movement, but it’s brought into the 21^st century with colours and images that are used as a recurring motif throughout the pub and its rooms. This is intentional design at its best, every element is beautiful, functional and memorable, testament to the talent and passion that Martin has for The Ley Arms.

Beatrice room at The Ley Arms Kenn Devon

The boutique rooms at the tavern (from £130 per night) are named after the Devon Beauties who were the Ley family. Each was famed for her beauty and spirit. The wallpapers in the rooms have been individually printed using Martin’s Arts and Crafts design and the colourways chosen to reflect the character of the Devon Beauties; Beatrice, Daisy, Mary, Henrietta, Marjorie and Violet.

Marjorie boutique room at The Ley Arms Kenn Devon

Daisy is specifically built to be accessible so that guests with wheelchair access requirements are cared for. Check out our review of the stunning Marjorie (above).

PILLOW TALK

living room at Two Mill Cottages The Ley Arms Kenn — Living room at Two Mills Cottage

In addition to the rooms in the tavern, there are two sizable rental cottages close by: Cramwell (check out the Muddy review)…

sofas Two Mill Cottages The Ley Arms Kenn

and the newest, where we’re staying: Two Mill Cottages.

fireplace at Two Mills Cottage The Ley Arms Kenn — Cosy fireside comfort at Two Mills Cottage

These are really very special and sit in their own design category that we have coined ‘country opulence’.

Kitchen at Two Mill Cottages The Ley Arms Kenn — Kitchen at Two Mill Cottages

Think rich velvets, gold and copper leaf walls, sumptuous silk swag curtains, button back leather sofas and a hot tub.

garden and hot tub at Two Mill Cottages The Ley Arms Kenn in Devon

Both cottages (which sleep up to six) are within stumbling distance of the pub and marry beautiful antiques with the mod-cons needed to make them both luxurious and practical.

SCOFF & QUAFF

food blackboard at The Ley Arms Kenn in Devon

Karen is a Devon local and has more than 20 years of experience of working in hospitality in the area. The Ley Arms is the pinnacle of her knowledge and her care and attention to detail makes it a special place to visit whether it’s a weekend jaunt, a Sunday lunch with the family, or just popping in for a quick drink at the bar. All of the food is sourced within 30 miles of Kenn with breakfast, lunch and dinner are all served. Everything, from the beef to the rocket in the salad simply tastes slightly better than usual.

The cocktails are also delicious and served in cut glass crystal glasses reminiscent of the Connaught, but very affordable at £10 each or £15 for two.

The menu is extensive and offers hearty lunchtime fayre – and a kids’ menu with prices from only £10 – and more extravagant evening dining with an indulgent Chicken Supreme at £20 or a really special, Chateaubriand at £90 for two to share. On top of everything being local, there are also plenty of gluten and dairy free options.

goats cheese salad at The Ley Arms Kenn in Devon

We had a full cooked breakfast, and in the evening, goats cheese salad dotted with the prettiest local flowers and gluten free treacle tart.

chocolate dessert at The Ley Arms Kenn in Devon

Plus – a very indulgent triple chocolate brownie with clotted cream for me.

gluten free treacle tart at The Ley Arms Kenn in Devon

The husband gave a huge thumbs up to his gluten and dairy free treacle tart and ice cream, such luxury is usually forbidden to him. Everything was delicious.

DOG-FRIENDLY?

Bertie, resident hound at The Ley Arms Kenn in Devon

It’s a joy for dog owners, as The Ley Arms is very dog friendly, provided your pooch is well-behaved. Watching over everything is Bertie, the resident bearded collie, who is almost human in his stewardship of all that he surveys. There’s a one-off £25 dog cleaning charge (which is waived if a whole week is booked). Doggy treats and a dog bed FOC upon request.

ANYTHING ELSE?

Karen goes out of her way to make the experience extra special. In the gardens, she hand-writes little thoughts of the day on pretty chalkboards and on fine summer evenings, she hosts Elvis and Dolly Parton to entertain the guests. Elvis is back for more on Fri 29 November, so don’t miss your chance to join in! Tickets (£10) need to be booked via the website.

OUT & ABOUT

There are some lovely places to visit all within a few miles. Everywhere around is equally dog friendly with beaches at Dawlish Warren and a gentle trip out to the river at Topsham.

Topsham is a charming town on the river with pretty little shops that sell unusual handmade and local bits and pieces that you can’t find anywhere else. There is an artisan chocolate shop, a three-storey antiques centre and a tiny toy shop, so it’s the perfect place to go for a post-lunch wander before heading back to The Ley Arms for dinner.

countryside view from Two Mill Cottages, The Ley Arms, Kenn in Devon — Not too shabby… the view from Two Mill Cottages

The joy of a location like this is that it works year round, whether it’s a wholesome summer escape with crabbing and bucket and spades, or holing up in winter around open fires and blustery country walks.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

bedroom at Two Mill Cottages, The Ley Arms Kenn in Devon

I asked Karen and Martin how they have the energy to run The Ley Arms, with such a huge amount going on, and everything done with such precision and care? ‘It’s all come about as a passion project, actually not passion, love. We both care deeply about what we are doing here and about our team,’ says Karen. Martin chips in ‘Well, love and a constant supply of of good red wine, that’s the secret’.

Good for: a year-round coast and countryside break with nearby Exeter city options; the privacy of self-catering without the catering if you don’t fancy it; a luxury cocktails and hot tub gals’ weekend; suits family, extended family but is cosy enough à deux; plenty of scope for dog owners with pub, walks and cottage all catering for pooches.

Not for: minimalists; more than one pooch.

The damage: From £1200 to £1600 a week depending on time of year. Direct bookings come with a complimentary bottle of wine or cocktails.

Two Mill Cottages, The Ley Arms, Kenn, Nr Exeter Devon, EX6 7UW Tel: 01392 832341. Email: contact@theleyarmskenn.co.uk

Words Sacha Newell

Muddy stays: Country opulence at Two Mill Cottages, Kenn

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