WHAT/WHERE?

The Farmers Arms at The Collective at Woolsery

If it wasn’t for The Collective, Woolfardisworthy – or Woolsery as it’s known – would be just another pretty Devon village with an old church and primary school at its centre. But that all changed around a decade ago, when San Franciscan tech millionaires, Michael and Xochi Birch, swooped in to breathe life back into the village’s derelict pub and chippy. They installed an ultra-creative MD, Emily Harmon, to implement their vision, and, gradually, thoughtfully and with help from local craftspeople, architects and interior designers, The Collective was born.

J Andrew Shop & Post Office at The Collective at Woolsery

It’s an inspiring tale, made more so by Michael’s familial links with the place. He holidayed here as a child; his grandparents lived here and owned the village shop opposite the pub. Not that they’d recognise the J. Andrew Shop & Post Office now – surely the poshest yet pragmatic corner shop you’ll ever see, with Trip CBD Drinks vying for space with the day’s papers, frozen peas and bags of Croyde Coffee.

Restaurant at Farmers Arms The Collective at Woolsery

It’s all so intriguing that last week, when Muddy heard the news that The Collective is one of the first ever Michelin Key holders in the UK, our bags were packed and we were on our way faster than you can say passion project.

THE VIBE

It’s super-stylish. A contemporary twist on trad British style in the shires: comfortably tweedy, but very luxe and with lashings of modern art adding that good ol’ Brit humour. Cool and contemporary enough to tick the boxes of the London crowd, while seemingly not getting up the noses of the locals. It can be a tricky balance to achieve, but here pulls it off, thanks to MD Emily’s intuitive ability to tap into the genus loci and distil it into the interiors.

THE STAY

The Old Smithy at The Collective at Woolsery

The Old Smithy is a one-bed, reverse-level self-catering cottage, with a large open-plan kitchen, living room and cloakroom upstairs and a hallway, bathroom with rainfall shower and bedroom downstairs.

The Old Smithy living area at The Collective at Woolsery

With a swipe of your key card, you step straight into this: floor to ceiling glass doors, statement lighting and a wood burner, and the snuggliest sofa in Christendom made snugglier by – yep, I counted – 16 cosy cushions.

bedroom The Old Smithy The Collective at Woolsery

Vibe-wise, it channels the eponymous Old Smithy in its masculine style, albeit a refined Hollywood version (let’s say Kit Harington). This is a sophisticated blacksmith whose industry is subtly suggested in leather and ironwork detailing, polished concrete floors and whose Smart TV is summoned with the flick of a remote to rise from the ottoman at the end of the bed.

bathroom and walk in shower The Old Smithy The Collective at Woolsery

The bathroom has a freestanding tub for long luxurious soaks, and a walk-in waterfall shower fitted with Steampunk-style levers all lit by the soft vintage glow of a high-tech Rako lighting system.

The Old Smithy living area at The Collective at Woolsery

But Kit or (alas) no Kit, here’s a total delight – serene, arty and practical. You’re right by the pub, but in your own ultra-comfortable world with a cocktail bar, Sage coffee machine and the smug feeling that all this fabulous good taste will surely rub off on you.

Muddy editor reviewing The Old Smithy at The Collective at Woolsery — “I’ll leave in a few months’ time, if that’s alright?”

Outside is a sweet little patio garden brimming with tropical geraniums and climbing roses. It doubles as an alfresco coffee spot and is your handy route straight into the pub garden, through a tiny wooden gate you duck down to enter, like Alice heading into Wonderland.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Just a short totter across the pub garden and you’re into The Farmers Arms where you’ll find a choice of nooks to scoff and quaff, as well as a spacious conservatory style restaurant, along with a choice of menus, including a popular locals’ Sunday lunch.

There’s a bijou but bustling bar where you can perch on a leather stool with a snifter and a bowl of handmade crisps, adjacent to the pub proper where there’s a private room for larger groups and a games room upstairs. The art is fab, from traditional stuffed cattle heads to a not so trad hologram of a dancing David Bowie.

a dish from the The Farmers Arms Woolsery

The new head chef Toby Neal works closely with head gardener Josh at The Collective’s Birch Farm to create a seasonal Pub Menu with crowd-pleasing options, such as Birch Farm Hogget starter, Pork Belly and Smoked Beetroot Tart, along with 50-day aged sirloin from Exmoor and sustainably caught Beer Battered Haddock from local day boats.

The other option is the Birch Farm Menu, showcasing the ingredients foraged from just up the lane, which we tried, and which brings extra sommelier fun of wine pairing advice from the joyful restaurant manager, Sophia. Starters include a Dartmoor-meets-Switzerland cheese puff, grilled sardines or guinea fowl which can be a tough old bird but whose hazelnut-infused flavours almost had us licking the knife. Paired with a mix of new and old world wines, including a peachy Pecorino Trabocchetto from Marche.

Mains for moi was a deliciously herbal crookneck squash flavoured with White Lake feta, paprika and summer savory, and, for my date, a Birch Farm Pork, a visual fresh peppery feast paired with an autumnal Romanian Pinot Noir.

Dessert brought May Day vibes in a strawberry flan made more romantic still thanks to a sprinkling of heart-shaped woodruff leaves (and a syrupy French Montbazillac) and a lemon geranium cake, an exuberance of pistachio, berry and verbena flavours.

Ask for this pub table if you fancy a date night – it’s low-lit, central – so good for people watching – and the plush chairs are high backed and conspiratorial.

breakfast hamper at The Collective at Woolsery

Hungry for a big brekkie? You won’t be! On arrival, you’ll find a double-sided A5 sheet of breakfast choice, including whiskey and honey porridge, Stuffed Portobello Mushroom with poached egg and sourdough toast or Birch Farm Hogs Pudding with a casserole of Birch Farm eggs and smokey bacon beans and quince brown sauce.

Delivered at a time of your choice in a giant wicker hamper, under impressive silver platters, it was as quality and mouth-watering as anything we’d had the night before but to be honest *and ungrateful* I could have done with a smaller, simpler option, after the evening’s gastro delights.

ANYTHING ELSE

Down the lane from your stay is Birch Farm: 150 organic acres which feed the restaurant and stock the shop shelves with meat, salad and veggies, and which recently lured BBC Gardeners’ World to film here. It’s headed up by Josh Sparkes (above), who worked in Japan and has studied avant garde sustainable practices, including agroforestry, permaculture and something called symtropical growing to create a farm like no other I’ve ever seen – and I’ve been around horticulture all my adult life.

If you’re interested in how food could/should be grown without hurting wildlife, nay benefiting from it, take a tour with Josh. How he successfully raises chaotic-looking crops amongst grass and under trees that you’ve never heard of, that might have leaves which taste like beef and onion crisps is all quite mind-blowing. You can also do more conventional workshops, like wreath making and go for a pop up supper in The Potting Shed, which oozes rustic style.

OUT & ABOUT

Bring your wellies and your walking boots: the South West coast path is nearby with Hartland’s lighthouse and geologically stunning cliffs a must-see. If you love a fishing village, visit Clovelly’s steeply cobbled lanes and harbour, but expect to pay a fee to enter. If you’re staying for longer, National Trust Arlington Court and its fascinating collection of carriages (very Bridgerton), Tintagel Castle and Arthurian legend, and the puffs of Lundy Island all make good day trips.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: a family or couples’ West Country escape with topnotch comfort, food and style taken care of; a MICHELIN-approved gourmet getaway; a rural base for exploring the charming villages of Hartland, Clovelly, and walks along the South West coast path; creative interior inspo – you’ll be planning a house makeover asap.

Not for: being in the hubbub; sandy beaches – this is more your blustery clifftop walk type o’ place.

The damage: Rooms £275; cottages from £450 per night; Birch Farm Menu 2 courses £45pp/3 courses £55, drinks pairing £20pp/£25; breakfast, £15pp.

The Collective at Woolsery, Bideford EX39 5QS. Tel: 01237 439328; Email stay@woolsery.com.

Muddy stays: The Collective at Woolsery

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