Devon


<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-what-where">WHAT/WHERE?</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="572" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/10/snark-dining.jpg" alt="The Snark Exeter" class="wp-image-70657" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/10/snark-dining.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/10/snark-dining-800x458.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/10/snark-dining-768x439.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>It&#8217;s enough to drive a gal into curiosity overload &#8211; a beautiful pea green boat, just arrived on Exeter Quay <em>and</em> there&#8217;s a restaurant on board?! Yes, <a href="https://www.snark.limited/winter-dining" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Snark</a> has sailed into the city&#8217;s canal basin and it&#8217;s moored here until early March 2025, serving up a pop-up winter dining menu offering all the very best home-cooked cuisines from European destinations to which she&#8217;s sailed.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="733" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/paul-quiao.jpg" alt="Paul and Qiao owners of The Snark " class="wp-image-70969" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/paul-quiao.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/paul-quiao-800x586.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/paul-quiao-768x563.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Rustling up the global menu are Paul (skipper and chef) and Qiao (ship&#8217;s bursar and front of house), who, when not sharing their passion for a hospitable, home-cooked winter sharing platter, are whisking landlubbers off on exciting summertime sailing holidays to St Malo, the Scilly Isles and beyond.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5.jpg" alt="Paul of The Snark " class="wp-image-70979" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Paul was taught his kitchen skills by his enlightened mother who was determined to unleash her sons into the world knowing how to wield a kitchen knife. He cut his teeth on the crews of the summer sailing holidays and calls himself and Qiao &#8216;accidental restauranteurs&#8217;.</p>



<p>The unusual name of the boat is not a reference to peevish sarcasm, but to <em>The Hunting of the Snark</em>, a narrative nonsense poem by Lewis Carroll. It follows the adventures of a ship&#8217;s crew hunting an elusive monster, and readers have interpreted the poem to be mean many things. Skipper Paul believes the Snark is an allegory for happiness, not as some have mooted &#8220;a tragedy of frustration and bafflement&#8221;. Good to know.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="999" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-sailing.jpg" alt="The Snark sailing boat " class="wp-image-70982" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-sailing.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-sailing-800x533.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-sailing-1000x666.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-sailing-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>The Snark was initially built by a father and son based on a Victorian heritage design, but after the father died, Paul and Qiao bought it and finished the job to their own design. It has a steel hull and had its 15 minutes of fame in the movie <em>Atonement </em>(the one with tattered sails in the Dunkirk beach scene). </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-vibe">THE VIBE</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-1.jpg" alt="The Snark Winter Dining by night at Exeter Quay" class="wp-image-70970" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-1.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-1-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-1-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Thrilling, adventurous, catnip for the curious! Dinner is just the one sitting, served at 7pm, with doors &#8211; make that &#8216;hatch&#8217; &#8211; open at 6.30pm, when the gantry is lit up with twinkly lights. There was some nervous hovering on deck, but then up popped a smiling Qiao to usher us down some (fairly steep) white steps below deck.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-14.jpg" alt="The Snark Winter Dining " class="wp-image-70997" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-14.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-14-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-14-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-14-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>The stylishly monochrome cabin which greeted us was boat-like in so much as it had a curved wooden edges to the ceiling, and long high windows above head height, but otherwise there&#8217;s not much to give it away. No helm or nausea-inducing rocking. </p>



<p>Everything felt very stable and cosy, with two long shared tables lined with cushioned seating built into the side of the boat on one side and freestanding wooden bench to the outside. Wafting delightful aromas at the far end, was Paul &#8211; or rather his sizzling pots and pans were &#8211; who is prepping at a long galley kitchen. The lighting is good and low, and the decor Scandi-minimal.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-8.jpg" alt="wine and guests on The Snark Winter Dining experience Exeter " class="wp-image-70980" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-8.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-8-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-8-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-8-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>We&#8217;re first on board, so we grab the comfy corner, with our backs to shelves filled with books on architecture (Paul and Qiao formerly owned a practice in Winchester). You pay for your meal online when you book, but drinks are extra, so while I head up to the galley to order a spicy bottle of red, guests gradually arrive (here can feed up to twenty, and do private parties), we say our slightly shy hellos and check out the menu. </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-scoff-amp-quaff">SCOFF &amp; QUAFF</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-4.jpg" alt="The Snark Winter Dining Moorish Spain Menu " class="wp-image-70972" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-4.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-4-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-4-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>This week it&#8217;s a four-course Spanish menu, inspired by the sun-soaked dishes of the Moorish region. In a week or two it changes to Italian, followed by English, Christmas, a Twelfth Night party, then Chinese (including Chinese New Year) and rounding off with more Italian in late Feb.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-6.jpg" alt="bowl of bread on The Snark " class="wp-image-70973" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-6.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-6-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-6-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>While Qiao delivers bowls of crusty white bread to the table (including a separate plate for my gluten-free friend), there&#8217;s no ambient music so there&#8217;s nothing for it but to break the ice with the other diners, who have come from as far as Exmouth, intrigued as we are with the idea of feasting on a sailing boat.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-7.jpg" alt="The Snark Winter Dining garlic  soup " class="wp-image-70974" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-7.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-7-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-7-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-7-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Hot on its heels came two big skillets of garlic soup, with two spoons for ladling it and the eggs, perfectly poached &#8211; which broke the ice further, with all hands on deck, helping to lift the pan and chase every last chunk of chorizo into our bowls. I&#8217;m not normally that keen on soup for starters because it can be deceptively filling, but this was light yet wholesome, and not a drop was left.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="2000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-9.jpg" alt="The Snark Winter Dining mezze platter " class="wp-image-70975" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-9.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-9-600x800.jpg 600w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-9-750x1000.jpg 750w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-9-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-9-1152x1536.jpg 1152w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Bowls and platters were cleared, with everyone mucking in and piling them up to help Qiao, to make way for a mezze of quality cured meats, piquant parsley salad, beetroot salad and homemade pickled veg with delicious kimchi vibes which Paul spooned from a large Kilner jar, colourfully elevated by a sprinkling of pomegranate and miniature pickles.  </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="750" height="1000" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-11-750x1000.jpg" alt="paella " class="wp-image-70976" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-11-750x1000.jpg 750w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-11-600x800.jpg 600w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-11-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-11.jpg 1000w" sizes="(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px" /></figure>



<p>The main attraction was a Catalan monkfish stew and big cast iron pans of vegetable paella. I adore meaty monkfish and this did not disappoint, while the paella was covered in melty chunks of succulent aubergine, juicy cherry toms and a scattering of fresh herbs, below which lay sweet Mediterranean pepper and slow-cooked Spanish onions. It was super-tasty if not over-seasoned (salty sea dogs can always add more), slow-cooked and sweetly caramelised.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-13.jpg" alt="The Snark Winter Dining Tarta de Santiago " class="wp-image-70977" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-13.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-13-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-13-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-13-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>The highlight of the night for me was the Tarta de Santiago &#8211; I asked Paul for the recipe on the first mouthful (it&#8217;s from <em>The Moro Cookbook </em>by Samantha and Samual Clark). This is a traditional Moorish tart made from citrus zest, chopped almonds and a splash of sherry and quince paste encased in a sweet shortcrust pastry. It was baked perfectly, and served with soft seasonal fruit and jugs of pouring cream. </p>



<p>Paul had intended to make a pastry-free version for my g-f friend, but accidentally forgot, so she had to smile graciously and make do with the creamy poached plums &#8211; and a splash from the second bottle of red wine &#8211; while we raved on obliviously about the tart.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-kid-friendly">KID-FRIENDLY?</h2>



<p>Not really for dinner, but Sunday lunch is a goer, and it&#8217;s three courses, instead of four, so cheaper at £35pp.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-accessibility">ACCESSIBILITY </h2>



<p>It&#8217;s down fairly steep steps, with no disabled bathroom so not for wheelchairs but according to Qiao, less mobile people can make it down with a bit of help.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-dog-friendly">DOG-FRIENDLY</h2>



<p>No mutts on board. And don&#8217;t ask for a doggy bag either: they don&#8217;t do them. </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-muddy-verdict">THE MUDDY VERDICT</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1500" height="1125" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5.jpg" alt="Paul the skipper of The Snark in the galley kitchen " class="wp-image-70979" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5.jpg 1500w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/devon/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2024/11/snark-5-768x576.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px" /></figure>



<p>Loved it! I&#8217;m putting this in my un-missables. Although the county has another floating dining experience in the River Exe Café, that&#8217;s just for summer and you have to book a boat taxi to get there. Here&#8217;s right in the city, close to a car park and with the city centre just fifteen minutes up the hill for a nightcap. If you prefer home-cooked to fancy, and love quirky experiences and meeting new people, book asap.</p>



<p><strong>Good for</strong>: an adventurous dining experience which you could even enjoy on your own thanks to the ready-made company. Anecdotal value is high, especially as Paul is happy to tell you tales of the high sea while he&#8217;s cooking. It&#8217;s a godsend for long-term couples who ran out of things to say to each other aeons ago. If you have an intolerance, most of the winter dining menus can be easily adapted, but I&#8217;d advise phoning ahead to make your needs known.</p>



<p><strong>Not for</strong>: turning up announced or a choice &#8211; you book a set menu online with one sitting Thurs &#8211; Saturday night and Sunday lunchtimes (not a Sunday roast, the same as in the week prior). The painfully shy or those with OCD might struggle with the sharing aspect &#8211; unless you go for safety in numbers and book up with a few friends. Paul and Qiao are too busy doing everything else to have time for seat reservations, so my advice is to turn up when doors open if you want to be sure of the best seats together. It&#8217;s not for late owls &#8211; we were fed, full and happy &#8211; and out by 9pm. </p>



<p><strong>The damage</strong>: £45pp for four courses from Thurs &#8211; Sat; £35 for three courses for Sunday lunch. Drinks not included.  </p>



<p><strong><em><a href="https://www.snark.limited/winter-dining" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Snark Winter Dining</a>, Piazza Terracina, Exeter EX2 8GT; Tel: 01962 841411; Email: bookings@snark.limited&nbsp;</em></strong></p>


Review: The Snark Winter Dining, Exeter

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