Those lucky Woolserians – I bet they feel pretty-damn smug having such a fabulous pub slap-bang in the middle of the village. But I’m not going to let them keep it all to themselves, oh no. It’s far too good not to share, which is also true of the Sunday lunches (which are booked up for weeks in advance), the starters, the mains and the desserts, for that matter.

Newly zhuzhed-up by Bebo millionaires, Michael and Xochi Birch (Michael has family links with the village), the quality of everything, from the furnishings, modern art, customer service and food, is sky-high, and all delivered in a wonderfully unstuffy way, as if to say, ‘this is the bar (sleek and modern with under-lighting and somewhere to hang your bag) we’ve set ourselves, and who’d expect anything less’?

Book in for executive chef Ian Webber’s (of Gidleigh Park cred) ingredient-led fine-dining in the restaurant or keep it real in the pub, where you can tuck into home-made bar snacks and cordials, local gins and beer, pub classics, plus kids’ meals priced at a very reasonable £5.50.

Hungry for more? Tuck into my Muddy review here – it’s delicious.